Hello folks! I have these switches in my bathroom.
The rightmost is the lights, and the middle one is the bathroom fan, and I’d like to replace that middle one with something I could load tasmota on (or some other open source firmware), without replacing the other switch, the sockets, or the faceplate.
I haven’t seen any smart switches that have a form factor that would fit through this faceplate, though; they seem to mostly want to be the entire electrical box.
If it weren’t for the electrical plugs I could maybe replace this with some kind of 2-gang thing, which isn’t really what I want but could be fine, but as it stands I’m not sure what my options here are.
I don’t need the new switch to necessarily look like the old one, I just want it to fit in the same box and use the same faceplate. Do you folks have any recommendations?
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You need a decora style outlet and switches. They all have the same large rectangular opening. All the Caseta wireless switches use that style. Not sure on open source options.
Anyway, then you can use a standard three-gang decora faceplate. No need to replace the box.Also make sure that outlet is GFCI while you’re at it.
You know… I hadn’t even noticed that outlet wasn’t GFCI… Ha!
Ok, you (and everyone else in thread) are right, the idea of rewiring the whole box wasn’t appealing to me, but if I’m being objective it’s actually not that much work and is probably less money overall than the smart switch itself.
Thanks folks, for shaking the blinders off me!
It could be down the line from another GFCI receptacle and still be protected. You can use a tester to trip it and see.
This right here is the answer. The fact that you have an outlet means you also have a neutral. That guarantees that you can use literally any Smart Switch you want.
Just replace the outlet with a decora style outlet, install two Smart switches, and put a three gang decora wall plate on. And you’re done.
In addition, this Leviton ZigBee switch does 15A and it works with HA Yellow. It’s got your standard NA certifications and you know, it’s Leviton.
Another option would be to rework the box/plate to a 2-gang or a 3-gang with one blind; short the fan leads to supply current at all times; put a smart plug in-between the fan and the power line. My bathroom fan has a small outlet that it connects to so I stuck a Hue switch directly in-between and removed the switch from the wall and replaced the plate with a 2-gang with a single opening. I also have a booster fan that was hardwired. I spilt the wiring, terminated it in a 1-gang box with an outlet. Terminated the fan cable with a plug. Added a smart plug in-between.
Not sure where you are at but a new faceplate is like $2 max. You can get one that is double outlet one big box and one tiny slot for the switch it you want. You can also opt to replace the other switch as well with a sea saw switch that is in a box shape as well for like $5.
There are options.
Way back I had replaced some of mine with Wemos before they went cloud based. I did exactly this, replaced the faceplate for like $1.50 and was set.
Do you have a tasmota switch in mind already?
Be careful with zooz if it’s for a fan (even a small exhaust fan). Their specifications don’t support that type of load. They do have some dry contact type switches that can handle fans, though. Not to mention it’s Zwave. Nothing wrong with Zwave, but you’d also need a hub.
Look into Shelly. They sell things that get stuffed in with your current switch. They have UL certified options, even. They work over WiFi and there’s a built in HA integration.
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Shelly is good but one of my switches overheats constantly. Shelly 1 Plus PM.
That sounds like it’s a fire hazard, and could be caused by bad wiring, not necessarily the Shelly device itself.
Definitely could be.
I’ve seen lots of reports of them overheating in crowded boxes. I recently removed it just in case I botched the set up.
As others mentioned, you can probably use a 3 gang standard faceplate.
The other option would be using a Shelly this is wired like a 3-way switch inside the box; the outside will look normal. As long as you have space, I think the mini should work but I’m not super familiar with their models.
This is a great time to have a 3D printer…
If the Shelly 2pm exists in 110v configuration, it could fit behind, it’s very tiny, it fit behind all my European switches
I second Shelly. A Shelly Plus 1 Mini is cheaper and probably more than enough for OP’s use case.
Leviton and probably others make modular switch plate covers so you can mix and match any combination you need.
While others have convinced me to just replace the whole gang, this is pretty cool! I’m kinda glad someone is making them, though I am a little curious to know how they’d look all assembled together… I feel like the seams would be pretty noticeable…
Say what. Do you have a link? I tried finding them and failed.I think I found them. They seem to be called “sectional” wall plates. Here’s an example that could let OP replace the middle switch with a decora while keeping the left and right as-is.
The ones I know of are at Home Depot . I searched “modular” but the listing’s didn’t seem to have any useful keywords. Also from what I was finding on the site the collection online is not very expansive. I have a switch plate at work that those could be useful for. I has to be a dozen switches wide.
I’ve seen this one which may fit what you’re looking for. No idea about open source firmware though.
This one might work for you too.
Really though, if you’re already spending money on a smart switch, you should probably just replace the outlet, other switch, and faceplate with decora (rectangle style) versions while you’re at it. It’s only going to run about $10 total for all those. Plus you can then use a smart switch that meets your firmware needs.
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Is there not a housing regulation against having electric outlets in wet rooms?
Possibly - I think Zooz zwave has a toggle switch that could fit, however it will be a different style (and probably not the off-white colour). I don’t know if there’s a wifi that could work.
Plates are cheap. That’s the wrong hill to die on. Find your switch that fits a single gang space and get a plate that fits it. If your switch exists it was made to fit one of the standard plate holes.
